Dining review_ homestyle barbecue at cindy lou’s food truck

Johnny Roldan (from right) and David Sarff, holding his son Xavier, stand in front of the Cindy Lou BBQ cart on Lancaster Drive. Cornichons what are they Roldan is the pitmaster, and Sarff’s cousin, Christopher, owns the cart. Les cornichons paroles (Photo: MOLLY J. Substitute for cornichons SMITH / Statesman Journal) Buy Photo

When you drive up to Herbal Remedies on Lancaster Drive, you don’t smell the smoke you’d expect.

The aroma is far more family-friendly: Smoky barbecue, the kind that evokes backyards filled with family and plastic folding tables, inflatable pools and linen shirts. Cornichons wiki The smell wafts from Cindy Lou’s barbecue truck, a mobile smoker and soul food spot parked snug between the medical marijuana dispensary and a paint shop. Picture Cindy Lou’s owner Christopher Sarff in a “Kiss the Cook” apron, holding a pair of tongs or a big metal spatula: It suits him well. Cornichons meaning His truck, usually drenched in rain, still smells of innocent summer afternoons.

Sarff grew up in the Dallas area, eating macaroni and cheese made by his mother, Cindy Lou. Cornichons australia She died four years before Sarff won his truck in a cook-off challenge and started serving her rice and mac to the Happy Valley area. What is cornichons in english He moved down south in November, smoking brisket, pork shoulder and ribs on Lancaster Drive multiple times a day.

Because the truck is small, dishes run out frequently. Cornichons pronounce Sometimes the truck closes early and without warning. What are cornichons in australia Still, if you catch this family business on a good day, you’ll be in for some serious Oregon barbecue.

Sarff describes his barbecue as “Oregon-style,” which fits: Pitmaster Johnny Roldan smokes brisket and pork shoulder for hours in the rain and cold. How to make cornichons But beyond that classic Pacific Northwest weather, the flavors of Cindy Lou’s don’t quite fit in any regional category: It’s not the sweet style of Kansas City or the vinegar-heavy style of North Carolina. What is a substitute for cornichons Memphis’ tomato-and-vinegar-based sauce feels somewhat similar, but Cindy Lou’s is stickier, sort of a mix between Memphis and Kansas City. How to pickle cornichons Roldan and Sarff’s versatility works to their advantage, for unusual takes on traditional grub.

Still, some proteins at Cindy Lou’s are more successful than others. Define cornichons The pulled pork traps moisture like a sponge, so the meat is oddly watery — not particularly appetizing — and hard to hide with barbecue sauce. Trader joe’s cornichons Not all the pulled meats suffer this fate, however: Pulled brisket is a lighter alternative to the fat-capped brisket, which has an “Oh, thank you, Lord” level of smoke and tang.

Both start off the same way: smoked for 12 hours, long enough to impact flavor but not so long that the meat becomes tough or dry. Cornichons trader joe’s The sweetness of raw honeycomb honey highlights the smoke, taming the salty fat cap with just a hint of acid. Les cornichons song But while the fat cap is served right out of the smoker, the pulled brisket is cut from the back of the piece of meat, separated from the fat and finished in the oven.

“Fall off the bone” doesn’t fully describe the baby backs at Cindy Lou’s: Ribs satisfyingly slide out of tender meat with ease. Les cornichons nino The cut is fatty, but Sarff has rendered some of it for flavorful, juicy rib meat. Are cornichons sweet or dill Still, the flavor of the barbecue sauce clashes with the dry and wet rubs on the ribs. Recipes using cornichons Eat them plain; it’s worth it.

Like the homemade casseroles and salads at a potluck, Cindy Lou BBQ’s side menu is an amalgam of faded family recipes, passed down in respect and memory and nostalgia. Recipes with cornichons Cindy Lou’s macaroni recipe was created by the namesake, a family favorite Sarff’s mother would make on special occasions. Cuisiner les cornichons It’s no wonder: The macaroni’s creamy bechamel is the kind of home cooking that attracts cookout groupies.

The rice, another Cindy Lou Sarff original, teases a touch of heat out of jalapenos and red pepper, but not enough to distract from the main event. Cornichons english A lovely match for ribs or brisket, Cindy Lou’s rice is a staff favorite and a light alternative to macaroni and cheese or loaded mashers.

Even lighter is the refreshing three-cabbage cole slaw, which counteracts the fatty barbecue with the tang of pineapple, apple cider vinegar and 13 other dressing ingredients. Difference between cornichons and gherkins Freshly chopped red and green cabbage crunch with bok choy, a welcome textural contrast to most sides and meats.

Eating Cindy Lou’s barbecue feels so easy. Restaurant les cornichons It’s that style of comfort food that’s hard to review because it tastes relaxing, tastes safe the way a loved one’s recipes tend to.

Smell and taste capture memories better than any other sense. What are cornichons cooking Sarff cooks the recipes of his late mother, Cindy Lou, out of respect for her, but also because the foods she made tie to happy moments in his life — birthday parties and afternoons at home. Difference between gherkins and cornichons Now, his family helps him re-create those foods for Salem diners out of a bright orange truck tucked away on Lancaster Drive.

“We’re a family-run business, working together with family and doing something to honor my mom,” Sarff said. How to pronounce cornichons “She was a great person; she deserves to be honored.”

Email Brooke Jackson-Glidden brookejg@statesmanjournal.com or call 503-428-3528. What is cornichons food Follow her on Twitter @jacksonglidden, or like her Facebook page www.facebook.com/BrookeJackson-Glidden. Are cornichons the same as gherkins Cindy Lou’s

Where: 340 Lancaster Drive (in the parking lot of Herbal Remedies next to Miller Paint)

What to order: Brisket (pulled or sliced), macaroni and cheese, cole slaw

(Four stars: exceptional; three stars: good; two stars: fair; one star: poor)

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