Hankies, shaftsbury avenue_ reliable go-to with no frills and a little bill _ london evening standard

I’d sort of thought people had realised TripAdvisor was a crock a while ago, until a group of friends said they used it to check if a restaurant was worth going to.

My friends! Not weirdos on the tube, fedora wearers, or those people who phone into Jeremy Vine. Spicy mayo recipe for chicken sandwich People I go for meals with, holiday with, try to sleep with. Chipotle mayo sauce recipe ‘That many people can’t be wrong,’ went the argument, which is the same rot that’s led to Trump sleeping in the White House and is the reason Linkin Park (!!) have the highest selling debut album of the 21st century (I wish I was joking).

Smashburger chipotle mayo recipe All of which is to say Hankies was immediately intriguing, seeing as its held onto a five star rating Trip Advisor since opening. Spicy mayo dipping sauce recipe They couldn’t all be from PRs pretending to be real humans, surely?

Hankies – yes, like you blow your nose on, only to describe the way they fold bread – sits where spirited Japanese Yumi Izakaya once used to be, on Shaftsbury Avenue. Chili mayo sauce recipe It serves the kind of easy-going North Indian cooking that’s built for snacking and (surprise surprise) sharing. Chipotle mayo dip recipe It does bill itself as a Delhi Street Cafe, after all. Sweet chili mayo sauce recipe And like in Delhi, tables here come and go quickly; it’s a place for beers and bites and having fun. How to make spicy mayo for sweet potato fries I tend linger over meals: we were done at Hankies after an hour and a half, and I was trying.

So dive in: the small plates, like Dahi Puri (okra, onion, pomegranate, rice puffs and chilli tomato chutney) suit being scooped right up and washed down with a cool beer, then followed with the house Dahl, a surprisingly rich concoction of black lentils. How to make spicy mayo for burgers ‘Cholay’ has that slightly off-putting eggy, masala smell, but plenty of broad flavour and crackling spice.

Move on swiftly, though, to the main plates: a chilli lamb chop comes soft and oozing juices, but woof, is the chilli there. How to make spicy mayo without sriracha Have an emergancy drink to hand – the Lassi’s are reasonably authentic, the yoghurt working like a cool blanket, a fire-fighter in a bottle.

Most impressive to look at – it does matter, don’t pretend otherwise – is the sea bream fried in spices: it comes head, tail, everything, lying on the plate in a golden hue of hot chilli and pepper, sprinkled lovingly in raw onions. How to make spicy mayo at home The lemon tempers its kick. How to make spicy mayo for sandwiches Easy off the bones, the bream is flavourful enough to be fight off being drowned by its coating.

Vivid: many of the dishes at Hankies are as flavourful as they are colourful

Not everything impresses. Chipotle mayo dipping sauce recipe The guinea fowl seekh kebab sounds more exciting than it is: ‘perfectly inoffensive’ I jot down, hardly a riotous endorsement. Easy chipotle mayo sauce recipe I suspect someone knows a cheap guinea fowl supplier, otherwise, why have it on the menu? It’s mild flavour is lost in this context.

Likewise, puddings are fine: we have mango and pistachio kulfi .These are grown up mini milks; no other description fits. Spicy mayonnaise recipe for sandwiches A little ordinary, but then, who doesn’t love mini milks?

Hankies isn’t a revolutionary restaurant. How to make spicy mayonnaise for sushi rolls It doesn’t particularly plug a gap, it doesn’t plate up gaspingly exquisite cooking. Recipe for spicy mayo sauce But, it is cheap and reliable, and good fun. Recipe for japanese spicy mayo It offers no frills. How to make spicy mayo sauce for sushi You don’t need frills here. Spicy tuna roll recipe no mayo Frills would get stuck in your teeth.

Come with friends. How to make spicy mayo with sriracha Tell your friends. How to make spicy mayo poke I could even persuade mine to come: turns out, Trip Advisor got one right.

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