Peach tree and momo-no-ki, shrewsbury_ restaurant review _ jay rayner _ life and style _ the guardian

The Peach Tree and Momo-No-Ki, 18-21 Abbey Foregate, Shrewsbury SY2 6AE (01743 355055). Food and drink prices in sunny beach bulgaria Meal for two, including wine and service: ?50-?100

Just outside the loop in the River Severn that encloses the heart of old Shrewsbury, all mullion windows, dark beams and twisted brick, is a mini restaurant row. Famous bulgarian footballers Here, facing the abbey, is a Cuban bar with an entirely un-Cuban menu of burgers and nachos. Famous bulgarian food There’s a Japanese ramen house next door and a modern British bistro next door to that.


Buy bulgarian food online It’s like some snapshot of Britain’s restless mid-market restaurant sector, each outlet huddling here for a little reflected warmth from the others.

The fiercely branded frontages suggest three separate businesses. Bulgarian traditional food But go inside Havana Republic, the raw wood bar and dangling bulbs nicely offsetting those Tudor beams, and you’ll see a doorway on the right. Bulgarian street food That leads through to Momo-No-Ki, the ramen bar, with its obligatory blond wood benches and tables. Bulgarian restaurants in usa It calls itself “the home of ramen in Shrewsbury” and who am I to argue? Ramen always needs somewhere to lay its head. Bulgarian restaurant shanghai There’s another doorway that leads into the Peach Tree, an altogether fancier set of spaces with vaulted ceilings, more gnarled beams and shiny, oversized ceramics. Bulgarian restaurant penang In the corner, there’s a digital grand piano, which makes me fear for the Great American Songbook.

So, three restaurants, one space and as it transpires, only one and a half kitchens serving the lot. Bulgarian restaurant nyc (It’s the ramen bar that gets the small “half” kitchen.) They belong to the same people, and are all overseen by one chef, Chris Burt. Bulgarian restaurant new york It’s utterly bonkers and shouldn’t work but, in its own sweet, charming, understated way, it does. Bulgarian restaurant los angeles ca Indeed, it’s rather good. Bulgarian restaurant los angeles And why the hell not? If a restaurant heavyweight like Jason Atherton can open modern brasseries, Spanish tapas joints and high-end Japanese gastro-pubs across London, why can’t Chris Burt do the same in Shrewsbury? It just requires attention to detail and a certain gastro-geekiness. Bulgarian restaurant london It seems Burt has all that. Bulgarian restaurant las vegas nv You could bring four generations of your family here and find something to please everyone. Bulgarian restaurant las vegas Or if you can’t, you should get a new family.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest ‘?6.50 worth of smacked lips and crunch’: piggy bits. Bulgarian restaurant in new york Photograph: Andrew Fox/Observer

If you do as we did, and order from two of the menus – we ignored the “Cuban” offering – you could end up with an utterly cacophonous meal. Bulgarian restaurant in los angeles That was our choice, not theirs. Bulgarian restaurant in des plaines We could have stuck with dumplings and a bowl of ramen called Umami Bomb (miso-crusted salmon, shio dashi, 62C egg). Bulgarian restaurant in atlanta We could have had gravadlax followed by a steak. Bulgarian restaurant des plaines il Instead we banged around between the two sides.

One dish, the cheerfully named Piggy Bits in Korean BBQ sauce, turns up on both menus. Bulgarian restaurant des plaines It’s a bowl full of crisped pieces of porker, a bit of belly here, some shoulder there, doused in glugs of a brawling, insistent sweet-savoury soy-based sauce. Bulgarian restaurant chicago They serve it with long cocktail sticks, so you can spear the bits of meat you want. Bulgarian restaurant boston It’s ?6.50 worth of smacked lips and crunch.

That sauce turns up with two other dishes from the Asian side of the list. Bulgarian restaurant atlanta It’s an observation. Bulgarian restaurant Not a complaint. Bulgarian presidential elections 2016 Being slapped around the face by caramel and umami and fermentation is my idea of a good night out. Bulgarian national food Fried pork and Chinese leaf dumplings, in their own dark sauce lake, are crisp and hot and perfectly designed to be dropped in the mouth whole.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest ‘Makes the world a better place’: chicken and mushrooms. Bulgarian made cars Photograph: Andrew Fox/Observer

Their pork bun is slightly weird. Bulgarian guns I assume it will be one of those puffy, rice flour cloud like jobs folded over and filled, as per the numerous bao joints that have opened recently. Bulgarian guitar These buns are indeed soft and cloudlike, but black and served top and bottom, as if enclosing a burger. Bulgarian food uk online We slice them up into pieces like a cake and eat them that way. Bulgarian food uk The burger bao is filled with crisped slices of soft pork belly, pickled cucumber and spring onions, all doused in lots more sweet salty sauce. Bulgarian food store online I suppose I could whinge about the use of the word “scallions” for spring onions on the menu. Bulgarian food store barking Shrewsbury is no more in America than, say Hoxton. Bulgarian food store But I can’t summon the will. Bulgarian food shop london It’s both a lot of bun and a lot of fun.

Being slapped around the face by caramel and umami and fermentation is my idea of a good night out

And so to the Peach Tree menu, which includes among its starters a take on Fergus Henderson’s famed roast bone marrow with a parsley salad and sourdough toast. Bulgarian food shop karlovo Sadly, it’s off today. Bulgarian food shop in london Instead we try their duck liver pate. Bulgarian food shop It comes with a cherry jelly, onion compote and the sort of fine, rugged toast you could build viable models of Stonehenge out of on a slow night. Bulgarian food seattle This is where it becomes interesting. Bulgarian food san francisco Because as well as making more than agreeable Japanese dumplings, this kitchen can also produce a fine classic pate, whipped and smoothed and set, with the murmur of an offal kick that anything made from livers should have.

From the main courses, there’s a huge plate of roast chicken, with skin the colour of amber. Bulgarian food safety agency It’s been pelted with ceps, gnocchi, a cheese crumb, a wild mushroom veloute and bits and pieces of black truffle. Bulgarian food recipes It reminds me of the late Michael Winner: it’s stupidly rich, quite absurd but means well and generally makes the world a better place. Bulgarian food prices I find myself drawn to a plate of ham, eggs and chips. Bulgarian food pictures Obviously, it’s an impeccable smoked Shropshire ham, with a subtle cure and a dense meaty texture. Bulgarian food online usa Obviously the chips are hand cut and crisp, the eggs fried until the whites glisten and the yolks wobble just so. Bulgarian food online store usa But it is still ham, eggs and chips and I love them for putting it on the menu.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest ‘Sweet things that deserve to hang out together’: Banana split bavarois. Bulgarian food online store Photograph: Andrew Fox/Observer

The only misfire is a bread and butter pudding which is under sweetened and served in a custard that could stick paper to walls. Bulgarian food online Far better is a smooth Banana Split Bavarois, with squares of fudge, a scattering of maple popcorn and a thick scoop of chocolate mousse. Bulgarian food nyc These are all sweet things that deserve to hang out together. Bulgarian food new york Until I’ve finished eating them. Bulgarian food near me And all of this served with wit and lack of fuss by a frighteningly young team.

In the past I have issued grave parental warning about menus that are too long; that draw on too many culinary cultures; that appear too damn eager to please. Bulgarian food market bristol The menus at the Peach Tree and its siblings appear to commit all of these crimes, but are now found not guilty. Bulgarian food market Don’t be mistaken. Bulgarian food los angeles It is not some modern wonder of the culinary world. Bulgarian food london Instead, it’s the sort of smart act any medium-sized town in the UK would want on their high street instead of the myriad Identikit chains. Bulgarian food las vegas Miraculously, they make it work. Bulgarian food ireland Jay’s news bites

The menu at the Garden House Inn, Durham, isn’t quite as eclectic as that at the Peach Tree, but don’t miss the Korean fried pork, the monkfish with the slap of ’nduja, or the chicken pasty, a thing of true beauty. Bulgarian food in usa And all this served in a set of rooms decked out like your nan’s front parlour ( gardenhouseinn.com).

A Hackney jazz bar is teaming up with the East London Liquor Company to celebrate the bottling of east London’s first whisky in over a century. Bulgarian food in london The Kansas Smitty’s, house band of the eponymous bar on Broadway Market will serenade the casks over their two-year maturation at a series of gigs in the distillery, ending with the release of both whisky and recordings of the jazz that followed its journey ( eastlondonliquorcompany.com).

Further evidence of our sweetening tooth: the Swiss ice-cream brand Movenpick is to open a new ‘dessert boutique’ in the Intu Metrocentre, Gateshead, to include an affogato Nespresso coffee menu. Bulgarian food in las vegas What a time to be alive.

Email Jay at jay.rayner@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @jayrayner1

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