The wildebeest, stoke holy cross, norfolk_ ‘it’s an age since i’ve come across a menu quite this verbose’ – restaurant review _ marina o’loughlin _ life and style _ the guardian

Of all the jibes that eggs on Twitter like to lob at me, my favourite has to be “metropolitan liberal elite”. Slow cooker chicken easy recipes As a Glaswegian from a working-class background living in a Ukip-scented seaside town, this tickles, but as I approach The Wildebeest, I think, right you are. Ground chicken easy recipes Fair enough. Breast chicken easy recipes There can be few more “metropolitan liberal elite” jobs than mine. Canned chicken easy recipes Let’s see what it feels like to behave like one.

We critics tend to be kinder to places outside the capital, in a sort of reverse London-weighting. Baked chicken easy recipes We turn a blind eye to gauche decorative touches.

Pictures of chicken gizzards The Wildebeest features brass-buttoned leather chairs (the kind of thing elderly, arse-obsessed internet commenters swoon at as “Comfy!”) and unclothed tables of rough-hewn wood. Chicken gizzard recipe There are ye olde beams, B&Q standard outdoor seating and decapitated blooms floating in small vases, the full Come Dine With Me contestants special. Gizzard chicken We wouldn’t mention crockery, the kind of thing now offered in “artisan” ranges by catering supply companies. Fried chicken gizzard recipe We’d wax benign about the service style with the kind of bright, sing-song voice usually reserved for saying, “Just pop up on the bed for me.” Not new elite moi, though. Chicken gizzard nutrition I’m beady as on their provincial asses.

The Wildebeest comes garlanded in plaudits, including from the Observer. Chicken gizzard recipe chinese Voted for by regular people, though: whatevs. Best chicken gizzard recipe Owners G&D Ventures also run Warwick Street Social in Norwich and The Ingham Swan up near the coast, and make a big noise about providing local food for locals. Chicken gizzard soup The menu: well. Chicken gizzard stew It’s an age since I’ve come across anything quite so verbose, a garrulous antithesis to the terse contemporary menu model. Chicken liver and gizzard recipe A starter features scallop-sized discs of chicken mousse with a claque of cheering accompaniments. Gizzard of chicken Both the mousse and grimly overcooked “garlic butter-poached langoustine” are rubbery. Gizzard chicken recipe Mushrooms are compost-slimy. Chicken liver and gizzard “Langoustine blancmange” – oh, please – is an indistinguishable blurt of something creamy that might have once snogged a crustacean. Boiled chicken gizzard recipe Truly fine deboned “crispy barbecue chicken wing”, though: the kitchen’s a whiz with the deep-fryer. Pickled chicken gizzard recipe In another starter, shards of beetroot meringue try to make themselves heard above a cacophony of pickled and pureed veg and shouty “coriander ricotta”.

These are the kinds of dishes that happen in provincial catering colleges and stuffy Michelin frotteurs, larded with the ambitions of TV cookery shows: the overplayed number of ingredients and techniques crowding each plate, the tortured “Nailed it, chef!” culture of Great British Menu. Chicken gizzard recipes tenderizing Or ludicrous MasterChef. Chicken gizzard indian recipe One dish reads, verbatim: “Norfolk beef plate; chargrilled beef fillet, crispy shin fritter, cheek & sage dumpling hotpot, salt baked swede, roast pancetta, baked beetroot & celeriac, Tacons buttered spinach, red wine jus.” You can just hear that being read out by a voiceover artist whose listeners’ fondest wish is that they’d moonlight on sex lines.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Beetroot meringue, pickled mooli, sweet coriander ricotta, walnut crumb, coriander cress. Spicy chicken gizzard recipe Photograph: Tony Buckingham for the Guardian

Normally, I’d go with the flow: I know that this excess, with its gels, soils, foams, is often conflated with haute cuisine. Recipe for chicken liver and gizzard But the execution just isn’t good enough. Chicken gizzard salad Dishes give the impression that individual elements were prepared much, much earlier and tweezered together at the last minute. Chicken gizzard soup recipe Constructions are repeated over and over: a swirl of creamy puree, a chunk of protein, a different chunk of same protein, a breaded croquette of, yes, that protein again, pickled, wilted, salt-baked vegetable, some rubbles, jus. Gizzard of a chicken There’s egregious over-cooking: pheasant breast blasted into the texture of jerky, with a hazelnut granola crumb and crispy leg fritter… oh God, blah. Chicken gizzard and liver recipe On another plate, baby sweetcorn makes a sly appearance. Easy chicken gizzard recipe It all makes me want to drag them to the likes of the Clove Club in That London or Blanca in New York. Gizzard in chicken Oops, sorry: both metropolises.

Desserts: a lipstick-scarlet raspberry panna cotta with nicely sharp peach and tarragon gel is completely successful, fighting off its chestnut snow and dense creme fraiche ripple ice-cream. Chinese chicken gizzard recipe The cheeseboard is a thing of generous, local wonder. Chicken gizzard benefits But an alluring-sounding creme brulee offers stiff, granular custard, stale-tasting toffee popcorn and “sticky toffee pudding ice-cream” with an ugly, loose texture and a weird, loo spray aftertaste.

So what? The clientele of red-trousered sixtysomethings and Norwich City footballers love it, and that’s all that will matter to it. Chicken gizzard fried Me, I’m happy to leave them to it. What is a chicken gizzard Worra metropolitan liberal elite bitch, eh?

• The Wildebeest 82-86 Norwich Road, Stoke Holy Cross, Norfolk, 01508 492497. Quick chicken gizzard recipe Open all week, lunch noon-2pm (3pm Sun), dinner 6.30-9pm (6-8pm Sun). Chicken gizzard curry About ?38 a head for three courses a la carte, set lunch ?21.50, set dinner ?28, all plus drinks and service.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *